Zagreb, Croatia’s vibrant capital, is a place where history, art, and modern-day life intersect seamlessly. After living in Zagreb for a year, I can confidently say that this city is my favorite in Croatia, brimming with cosmopolitan charm, an energetic art scene, and fantastic coffee shops that rival the best in Europe.
I was first attracted to living in Croatia as a way to get in touch with my Croatian heritage, although I'm usually based in Europe between Edinburgh and Zurich. After more than a year of living in Zagreb, I fell in love with the city and Croatia as a whole.
If you're dreaming of moving to Croatia, whether to connect with your roots like I did, or for any other reason under the sun, here's what it's really like living in Zagreb compared to more popular Croatian cities like Split or Pula.
Short on time? Here's the cheat sheet:
💭Living in Zagreb is a great choice for those looking for a more affordable and less visited capital city in Western Europe.
🏠The best neighborhoods to live in are Upper Town and Lower Town, both in the city center.
🛏️Start off by booking a hotel or vacation rental, like Mardi Apartment, to get a feel for Zagreb before signing a long-term lease.
📚Make your transition easier and get a headstart learning the language with Mondly.
🛂Most non-European foreigners who live here are on either on a work visa, family visa, or the new digital nomad visa.
💰Cost of living is often considered affordable by foreigners but why not earn travel rewards on all expenses with a Capital One Venture Card.
☂️Although it's a small city with limited nightlife and attractions,
☀️What Zagreb does offer is lively, vibrant, and very unique.
A Little Background First
Zagreb is the cultural, political, and economic hub of Croatia. While it might be overshadowed by the Adriatic’s coastal gems, this city has its own allure: grand Austro-Hungarian architecture, sprawling parks, and a blend of old-world charm and contemporary dynamism.
The city is divided into the historic Upper Town (Gornji Grad) with its cobblestone streets and medieval buildings, and the bustling Lower Town (Donji Grad), known for its wide avenues, museums, and cafés.
Best Neighborhoods to Live in
Although the city center draws the most attention, it's not the only place to live in Zagreb. Depending on what you're looking for, there are a few neighborhoods or districts I'd recommend scoping out.
Upper Town (Gornji Grad)
Upper Town is the historic heart of Zagreb and is perfect for those who love culture, charming old buildings, and city views. Living here means being surrounded by landmarks like St. Mark’s Church and the Lotrščak Tower.
📍Before signing a long-term lease, get a feel for what it's really like living in Upper Town by starting off at a hotel or vacation rental. I recommend:
- Budget Stay: Upper Town Apartments: Stay right in the heart of lively Tkalciceva Street without breaking the bank at this apartment rental.
- Mid-Tier Stay: Apartment Nikola 4*: Enjoy more space to spread out at this cozy, recently renovated apartment.
- Luxury Stay: Lux Apartments: For stunning views and high-end amenities, it'll be hard to beat this 2 or 3-bedroom apartment.
Lower Town (Donji Grad)
Lower Town is ideal for expats looking for a central location with a mix of restaurants, shops, and vibrant social life. It's also home to parks like Zrinjevac and many museums. It's my personal favorite area of Zagreb.
📍Before signing a long-term lease, get a feel for what it's really like living in Lower Town by starting off at a hotel or vacation rental. I recommend:
- Budget Stay: WOODY Apartment: Stay right next to Zrinjevac Park, ideal for those that love to see plenty of green spaces.
- Mid-Tier Stay: Mardi Apartment: This cozy apartment has a warm, welcoming environment and offers enough space to sleep 3.
- Luxury Stay: Deluxe Apartman Egle: This one-bedroom apartment sits you perfectly between Upper and Lower Town so you should be able to walk wherever you'd like to go.
Trešnjevka
Trešnjevka is a lively, local neighborhood with markets and more affordable rent, suitable for those who want a mix of residential and urban life.
📍Before signing a long-term lease, get a feel for what it's really like living in Trešnjevka by starting off at a hotel or vacation rental. I recommend:
- Budget Stay: Apartment Sun: Just a 10-minute walk from Jarun Lake, this studio apartment is a great choice for those looking for a full-kitchen without the big price tag.
- Mid-Tier Stay: Modern City Residences: This one-bedroom apartment has slightly higher end furnishes and more space than the budget stay.
- Luxury Stay: Apartman Rhapsody: Stay in a hippie's paradise at this quirky two-bedroom apartment full of unique touches.
Maksimir
Known for its beautiful and massive Maksimir Park and Zagreb Zoo, this area is more laid-back and perfect for nature lovers.
📍Before signing a long-term lease, get a feel for what it's really like living in Maksimir by starting off at a hotel or vacation rental. I recommend:
- Budget Stay: Maksimir-Rebro: Just a few blocks from Maksimir Park, this bright and clean apartment covers your basics at an affordable price.
- Mid-Tier Stay: Apartman MARISOL: Enjoy more space and good views at this one-bedroom located between the park and the city center.
- Luxury Stay: Apartment Maksimir: In a similar area, this apartment offers even more space and just steps from the tram line that takes you directly into the city.
Jarun
Jarun is popular among younger expats and families for its proximity to the lake, which is ideal for outdoor activities and social gatherings.
📍Before signing a long-term lease, get a feel for what it's really like living in Jarun by starting off at a hotel or vacation rental. I recommend:
- Budget Stay: City Lake Pearl: Stay right in the heart of this quiet neighborhood where you'll be within walking distance of the lake, a grocery store, and the tram.
- Mid-Tier Stay: Apartment Jarun Comfort: This host offers a small apartment and for a higher price, a two-bedroom apartment with a balcony for those who crave more space.
- Luxury Stay: Apartman Franko: You'll be almost as close to the lake and park as possible at this apartment, ideal for those that want to easy access to green spaces and outdoor activities.
Apartment Hunting Tips
Start your search on local real estate websites like Njuškalo or Index Oglasi. Since most listings and communication are in Croatian, using Google Translate can be a helpful tool if you’re not fluent.
Once you find an apartment you like, be prepared to act fast—good options get snapped up quickly.
Enlisting the help of a local real estate agent can also be a smart move to navigate the market and overcome any language barriers. To ease into the city and explore different neighborhoods, platforms like Airbnb or Booking.com are great for finding temporary stays until you find a place that truly feels like home.
General Cost of Living
Rent varies by neighborhood but is affordable compared to other European capitals. Expect to pay around €400-€700 for a one-bedroom apartment in a desirable area.
Groceries, dining out, and public transport are reasonably priced, making Zagreb a budget-friendly option for expats.
Boring but Important (Legalities to Living There)
If you're planning on living in Zagreb long-term, it's essential to understand the legalities.
Expats from non-EU countries typically need a residence permit, which is often tied to employment or family reunification. While you can rent an apartment on a tourist visa, staying long-term without proper documentation can lead to complications.
Job Hunting Tips
If you’re looking to work in Zagreb, knowing English is a huge plus, especially in industries like tourism, tech, and education. Websites like Posao.hr and MojPosao.net are great for job listings.
For expats, international companies or startups tend to offer positions that require English. Networking at co-working spaces like Impact Hub can also open doors.
Visa Options
For stays longer than 90 days, most expats will need to apply for a residence permit. This permit requires a valid reason for your extended stay, such as employment, study, or family reunification. The application process can be detailed and time-consuming, so it’s best to start early and stay updated through the Croatian Ministry of Interior website to ensure you meet the latest requirements.
There are a number of visas in Croatia for long-term residency you should consider.
Digital Nomad Visa
The good news for remote workers is that Croatia offers a digital nomad visa, making it an attractive option for those who work independently of a Croatian employer. Introduced to support the growing trend of remote work, the digital nomad visa allows non-EU citizens to stay in Croatia for up to one year without needing a work permit.
To apply, you’ll need to provide proof of remote employment or freelance work, demonstrate sufficient financial means, and show that you have health insurance.
This visa offers a unique opportunity for digital nomads to enjoy the high quality of life, vibrant culture, and affordable living that Zagreb and the rest of Croatia have to offer.
Quality of Life as an Expat
Zagreb offers a high quality of life with a laid-back pace, excellent public transportation, and a lower cost of living compared to many Western European cities. The city is safe, with friendly locals who are often willing to help.
While the language can be challenging, many younger Croatians speak English well, making daily life easier.
Depending on your goals, I recommend these apps/platforms for language learning:
- Drops: Use the free version of this app for 5-minutes of vocab lessons a day. This is good for improving vocab but little else.
- Mondly: If you want to have a little bit more practice, this app is similar to Duolingo but has less silly prompts and more realistic phrases and sentences.
- Babbel: Babbel is similar to Mondly but also teaches cultural tidbits during the language lesson.
- iTalki: If you're more serious about learning to speak the language, this platform allows you to have 1:1 or group lessons with native teachers.
Fun Things to Do & Social Scene
Zagreb is packed with activities and cultural experiences. Spend your weekends at art galleries like Lauba or explore the Museum of Broken Relationships, which offers a unique twist on storytelling.
The social scene thrives around the outdoor cafés on Tkalčićeva Street, where you can people-watch over a coffee. It's also a very walkable city, making it fun and easy to get around and find new favorite spots.
In the summer, the city hosts festivals like Zagreb Film Festival and Cest is d’Best, showcasing its lively arts scene.
Check out Plac Kitchen and Grill, it is one of the best cevapi in town and has great local side dishes too! This is the perfect place to enjoy your first authentic Croatian meal once you move here!
For local products, visit Dolac Market, the main farmers’ market. For larger shopping trips, Avenue Mall and Arena Centar offer international and local brands. Ajvar is an absolute must-try everywhere in the Balkans, Croatia included!
Things I Wish I Knew Before Moving to Zagreb
These are a few things I wish I knew before moving to Zagreb that'll hopefully help you make the transition a little bit smoother:
- Understanding some basic Croatian phrases can go a long way, especially when dealing with landlords or bureaucratic processes.
- The winters can be colder than expected, so pack appropriately. There's even a small ski slope just outside of the city center - something most people definitely don't associate with Croatia!
- I also suggest packing comfortable walking shoes (the cobblestones in Upper Town are no joke) and an EU plug adapter.
- While Zagreb is cosmopolitan, shops and restaurants may have limited hours on Sundays and holidays, which can catch newcomers off-guard.
- The city’s trams and buses are reliable, and a monthly pass is inexpensive. Cycling is also popular, especially around Jarun Lake.
Will You Try Living in Zagreb?
Although many dream of visiting Croatia, few actually call it their home. But why not? With a variety of visa options to make the transition smoother and a lower cost of living than most European capitals, there's a lot to love about living in Zagreb.
Zagreb’s blend of history, modern charm, and welcoming atmosphere make it an incredible place for expats. Whether you're sipping coffee in the sun or exploring its rich culture, this city has a way of making you feel at home.
Hero picture courtesy of depositphotos.com.