An Expat's Guide to Living in Catania, Sicily

Living in Catania (Romanticized vs. Reality)

Before moving to Catania, I had a picture-perfect vision of what life in Sicily would be like: morning cappuccinos at a sun-drenched café, stroll through charming cobblestone streets, and effortless conversations with friendly locals who would welcome me like family.

I imagined myself effortlessly slipping into the Italian lifestyle, twirling pasta with ease, and sipping wine as the sun set over rolling hills.

Reality? Let's just say my first few months were a mix of awe and frustration.

Yes, the cappuccinos were divine—but they are so strong that if you aren't used to drinking them, get ready for a belly ache. The charming streets? Beautiful, but also full of uneven, slippery stones that gave me a bruise the size of a grapefruit due to wearing the wrong shoes. And those effortless conversations? They were more like me butchering Italian and pretending to understand what they were saying back.

Many dream of living in Catania because movies, travel magazines, and romanticized social media posts have enchanted them. They picture a stress-free, postcard-perfect life. Even compared to other Italian cities, Sicily is its own.

And while there is undeniable magic here—sun-soaked piazzas, rich history, and food that makes you emotional—there are also cultural differences and moments of deep frustration that most visitors never experience.

In this section, I'll break down some of the biggest myths vs. realities of living in Sicily.

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Myth #1. Every day will feel like a vacation

The Reality: Catania is breathtaking—sparkly blue waters, a view of Mt. Etna, and incredible food—but living here isn't the same as being on vacation.

Once the honeymoon phase fades, you'll have to deal with the realities of everyday life: language barriers, cultural differences, driving anxiety, and normalized scams. You'll still do grocery shopping, figure out where to park, and figure out how to communicate (which can be more complicated than you think).

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Myth #2. Sicilians are always relaxed and easygoing

The Reality: While Sicilians embrace 'la dolce vita,' they are also passionate—which means heated debates, animated hand gestures, and an approach to driving that can feel chaotic.

Sicilians are warm and welcoming but take traditions seriously, and you might not always get the experience you expect.

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Myth #3. Everything is cheap

The Reality: Compared to other locations, Catania is more affordable, but it's not dirt cheap.

Housing can be inexpensive, especially in smaller towns, but imported goods, gas, and particular services (like electricity) can be surprisingly pricey.

If you're earning a local salary, making ends meet might not be as easy as expected.

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Myth #4. You can get by with just English

The Reality: In major tourist areas like Taormina and Palermo, you'll find people who speak English, but in everyday life, Italian (or even Sicilian dialect) is essential.

Don't expect your landlord, plumber, or local market vendor to understand English. Learning at least basic Italian will make your life much easier and help you connect with the community.

Depending on your goals, I recommend these apps/platforms for language learning:

• Drops: Use the free version of this app for 5-minutes of vocab lessons a day. This is good for improving vocab but little else.
• Mondly: If you want to have a little bit more practice, this app is similar to Duolingo but has less silly prompts and more realistic phrases and sentences.
• Babbel: Babbel is similar to Mondly but also teaches cultural tidbits during the language lesson.
• iTalki: If you're more serious about learning to speak the language, this platform allows you to have 1:1 or group lessons with native teachers.

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Best Areas of Catania to Live

The heart of the city is Piazza del Duomo, home to the iconic Fontana dell’Elefante and the grand Catania Cathedral. Via Etnea, the main shopping street stretches toward the volcano, lined with cafés, boutiques, and stunning views. 

Neighborhoods like Centro Storico offer historic charm, while Borgo-Sanzio is a quieter, more residential area. Ognina and San Giovanni Li Cuti provide picturesque coastal views for seaside living, while San Berillo, once infamous, is now an emerging arts district.

Whether you’re drawn to bustling fish markets, elegant palaces, or a mix of old and new, Catania has something for everyone. In general, you can find affordable housing throughout the city - just know that if you aim to move here in the summer, you might get stuck paying more than you'd expect.

My biggest recommendation? Start with a short-term rental or a hotel in the city center and explore from there to find out which neighborhood feels most like home to you.

📍Consider booking a stay at one of these spots in the center of Catania:

• Budget Stay: Stefano's House: Stay right in the city center at this apartment rental nestled on a winding alleyway. It's relatively small but affordable.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Bibike: Also right in the center of Catania, you can choose from a variety of room sizes and specific amenities at this apartment complex.
• Luxury Stay: Palazzo Costarelli B&B: Want a little bit more style with your stay? This bed and breakfast also offers a variety of rooms in a bright and clean environment.

Legalities of Living in Catania

Of course, there are several legal considerations for living in Catania (or anywhere in Italy for that matter). 

Visa & Residency

If you plan to stay less than 90 days, most nationalities don’t need a visa under the Schengen Agreement—just a valid passport. This is the case for American travelers but be sure to drop check the rule and if you need to apply for a tourist visa based on your nationality.

For stays over 90 days, you’ll need a long-term visa, such as:

• Elective Residency Visa (for retirees with financial means)
• Work Visa (requires a job offer and employer sponsorship)
• Self-Employment or Digital Nomad Visa (pending updates in Italian law)
• Student Visa (for those enrolling in a recognized school or university)

After arriving with a long-term visa, you must apply for a Permesso di Soggiorno (Permit to Stay) within eight days at the local Questura (police station).

Note from Kat, the founder of A Way Abroad: I also live in Italy but in the northern city of Trieste. Getting a visa isn't the easiest in Italy and just know that it's step 1 to the long bureaucratic process of being able to live here long-term. Personally, the challenges have been worth it but just know nothing is quite straightforward here. Each Questura and region will have a slightly different way of handling the process so if you're relying on someone for detailed steps, be sure you're speaking with someone who is on the same visa as you as who went through the residency process in the same region and ideally the same Questura.

Tax & Financial Considerations

If you live in Italy for more than 183 days a year, you’re considered a tax resident and may have to pay Italian taxes on your worldwide income.

Opening an Italian bank account is helpful for paying rent and utilities but may require a Codice Fiscale (Italian tax ID). A way around this is by opening up a Wise account. This type of virtual bank allows you to make payments in a slew of currencies. It's how Kat pays her landlord in Trieste.

Healthcare

Expats staying long-term may need private health insurance or, if they obtain residency, can register with the Italian National Health Service (SSN) for public healthcare.

If you're here for less time than it'd take to get into the public healthcare system, I suggest using SafetyWing. This insurance is geared towards travelers, nomads, and expats.

Driving & Transportation

Americans can drive with an International Driving Permit (IDP) for up to one year, after which they must obtain an Italian driver’s license (which requires taking the exam in Italian).

Some nationalities are allowed to simply swap their license to an Italian one but for Americans, it'll take going through the entire process from scratch.

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The Local Food Scene

I don't know about you but one of the things I was most excited about moving to Catania was the food!

Catania's food scene is full of unique, flavor-packed dishes you won't easily find elsewhere in Italy. Here are a few must-try classics:

• Arancini – Golden, crispy rice balls stuffed with ragu, cheese, or pistachio cream, depending on the region.
• Pasta alla Norma is a simple yet decadent dish with eggplant, tomatoes, ricotta salata, and basil—it's an authentic taste of Catania.
• Cannoli – Sicily's most famous dessert: a crispy, fried pastry tube filled with sweet ricotta, sometimes flavored with chocolate or pistachios.

Sicilians don't just eat fresh food—they eat what's in season, and it makes all the difference. You'll get the best, juicy blood oranges in winter (just in time for cold season), large artichokes in spring, and the sweetest tomatoes you've ever tasted in summer. 

This means meals change with the seasons, and the flavors are always at their peak. Shopping at local markets becomes a way of life, and once you get used to this rhythm, supermarket produce back home will never taste the same.

Eating Out vs. Cooking at Home

Dining out in Sicily isn't about quick bites and chain restaurants—it's a social event. Meals are slow, communal, and often last for hours, with multiple courses and plenty of conversation.

Surprisingly, eating out can be affordable, especially in local trattorias, where a full meal with wine can cost less than a fancy coffee in the States.

That said, cooking at home is an entire process here. Grocery shopping involves figuring out parking, walking long distances, occasionally paying scammers, and going to multiple stops—the butcher, the fish market, the bakery, and the produce market in order to get everything you need for your recipe.

Craving peanut butter? Need a little cilantro? Maybe a pumpkin spice latte? Good luck.

While Catania is a food paradise, imported goods are expensive and often impossible to find. You might have to hunt down specialty stores or pay eye-watering prices for simple comforts like maple syrup.

But on the flip side, you'll discover local flavors that make up for it—like pistachio cream, fresh ricotta, and homemade almond cookies that taste better than anything from a package.

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What No One Tells You About Living in Catania

Moving to Catania isn't just a change of scenery—it's a crash course in slowing down, letting go, and learning to laugh at life's little absurdities.

La Dolce Far Niente

The concept of la dolce far niente (the sweet art of doing nothing) is deeply ingrained here, which can be charming and maddening.

As an American, I was used to efficiency, competitive work environments, and top-notch customer service. While I of course need to be the one to manage my expectations as I'm the one who moved here, it can be tough sometimes to take a deep breath and remember this.

Then, there are moments of unexpected generosity: forget your wallet at a café? No problem, pay next time.

In Catania, you'll quickly notice that finding a job with decent pay is not easy. If you're lucky enough to find a job, sometimes it seems like avoiding work is your coworkers' full-time job. 

If you need a problem solved—a banking issue or a leaky sink—expect delays, shrugs, and the occasional "Come back tomorrow" (which might mean next week). At first, it can feel like the entire system is conspiring against you.

Daily rhythms will also throw you for a loop. Siesta culture is alive and well, meaning shops close for hours in the afternoon, and dinner doesn't start until 7:30 PM or later. If you're used to eating at 6 PM, prepare to adapt—or snack strategically. 

Scams

Some scams are completely ungoverned and normalized, and you go with them because they are easier than putting up the fight.

For example, some locals will charge you to park even though they don't have the authority. You pay them so you don't return to your car with flat tires.

Going through a toll booth? That will be 5 euros for the lady to hit the ticket button for you. You will pay the actual toll when you exit, but locals will take advantage of unsuspecting foreigners and locals. 

Driving

And then there's driving—which is less about following rules and more about reading the chaos in real-time. In the countryside, you might only battle potholes and the occasional herd of sheep.

Still, in cities, it's a high-stakes game of chicken with Vespas weaving around you, cars pulling out randomly, and honks flying if you hesitate even a second. 

Traffic laws? It's more like traffic suggestions. It's overwhelming at first, but once you surrender to the flow, there's a thrill to it—you learn to predict the moves of others, embrace the chaos, and eventually drive like a Sicilian yourself.

Culture shock in Sicily is real, but it becomes part of the adventure if you lean into the unpredictability.

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The Pros & Cons of Living in Catania

The pros of living here:

• The warm climate most of the year and stunning landscapes
• The slower, relaxed pace of life
• Affordable cost of living
• Access to fresh, local food
• Traveling within Europe is very inexpensive

The cons I've faced in my move:

• Scammers waiting to take advantage whenever they can
• Limited job opportunities unless you work remotely
• Language barrier (especially in smaller towns)
• Chaotic driving takes some time to get used to
• Summers are so hot that the landscape catches on fire

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Is Living In Catania Right for You?

You'll thrive here if you're adaptable, social, and appreciate a relaxed pace. Life revolves around seasonal meals, late dinners, and unhurried conversations, making it perfect for creatives, retirees, and remote workers.

However, adjusting might be challenging if you need rigid schedules or fast service.

The best way to know if Catania is right for you? Visit first, stay a while, and see if the island's charm feels like home.