An Expat's Guide to Living in Setúbal, Portugal

What is Setúbal like for Expats

While, as I mentioned, one of the reasons why I initially chose Setúbal was due to its notably small expat community, that has changed a lot since. The community has grown as Setúbal has developed, and as property prices in Lisbon have gone well past affordable prices, pushing even wealthy foreigners to seek alternatives. Plus, the beautiful landscapes, amazing fresh fish, and walkability lure expats to the city. Additionally, Setubal has one of the best private hospitals in the country, a major draw for retirees. 

So, now there is a lively expat community, much like Cascais on the other side of Lisbon. However, I came with the aim to integrate into the local community and make Portuguese friends. And I can happily report that I have been welcome and able to do that. I find that the Setubalense are somewhat in awe that I would move to Portugal and choose their city, of all places. 

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Do you need to speak English?

I'm living in Setúbal in my 30s, and many of my peers speak exceptional English, so socially I am able to function in English. However, I have learned a conversational level of Portugues (and I am still studying) which is essential for much of my day to day life living in Setúbal. 

For example, while many waiters speak English, many don’t. The cobbler I go to speaks English, but the seamstress doesn't. I’d say about 25% of my Uber drivers speak English. 

So learning Portuguese will make your life in Setúbal easier — plus, it is simply a show of respect to learn the language of the country you move to.

Depending on your goals, I recommend these apps/platforms for language learning:

• Drops: Use the free version of this app for 5-minutes of vocab lessons a day. This is good for improving vocab but little else.
• Mondly: If you want to have a little bit more practice, this app is similar to Duolingo but has less silly prompts and more realistic phrases and sentences.
• Babbel: Babbel is similar to Mondly but also teaches cultural tidbits during the language lesson.
• iTalki: If you're more serious about learning to speak the language, this platform allows you to have 1:1 or group lessons with native teachers.

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Do you need a car to live in Setúbal?

I don’t have a car. The city centre itself is very walkable. You could get from one side to the other in about 45 minutes by foot. And public transport can get you there even faster. But there is rarely a reason to go that far. 

Much of my life is within a 15-20 minute walk — grocery stores, bars, restaurants, my seamstress and cobbler, plenty of shops, and the best beaches.

However, there is so much in the nearby countryside worth exploring, and though buses and trains do operate, certain parts are difficult to get to without a car. I use Ubers regularly as I ride horses and the bus to get to the barn is very time consuming. And I rent a car about twice a year to explore more of rural Portugal. 

Cost of Living in Setúbal

Something I think is incredibly important for anyone moving to Portugal to understand is how much the locals are struggling. The monthly minimum wage in the country is €956.66, more than 20% of the population earns that. This is very low compared to other European countries. A very tiny studio apartment in Setubal is €500. 

Locals are being priced out. It's vital that we are sensitive to that and that we understand our role in the problem.

Some things to be careful of:

• Instead of using “cheap”, use “affordable”. Remember, what may be cheap for you, likely won’t be for a Portuguese person who is struggling with the cost of living. 
• Do not publish your budget. When you are looking for a property, don’t say your maximum budget in places like Facebook groups. If you say you can afford $2,000 per month, that's what a landlord is going to charge you, even if the value is lower.

Here are some things that go into your cost of living:

• One bedroom apartment: €750-800/month. 
• Glass of wine: €2.50-3
• Monthly pass which covers public transportation costs around the Setúbal Peninsula and Lisbon region: €40
• A good quality lunch at one of the local restaurants: €12
• A nicer restaurant dinner: €20-25
• Food for one person for one week: €50

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Where to live in Setúbal

Again, the Setúbal area is walkable. There aren’t many bad places to live, but the best option depends on what you want. Here are some of the popular neighborhoods.

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Baixa - the city center

Baixa is downtown. This is the historic center and has a lot of rich history. It is the picture perfect part of the city with cobbled streets, large squares, shops, cafes, and restaurants. You’ll find historic buildings, many of which are renovated as townhouses or individual apartments. 

I lived here when I first moved here and loved the easy access I had to all the amenities, plus a lot of the streets are pedestrianized. Just be careful you don’t end up living above a bar, people will be outside drinking until late!

📍Before you decide to move to this neighborhood, I suggest you book a hotel or vacation rental for at least a night or two to get a real feel for it at all hours. This will give you the best chance to see if living in Baixa is a good choice for you.

• Budget Stay: Setúbal CityCenter Studios: Set right in the city center, this studio apartment is clean, bright, and has everything you’d need for a short stay.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Baixa-Mar Setúbal Miradouro: Enjoy a lot more space at this 1-bedroom apartment with a full living room and dining area. 
• Luxury Stay: Preia-Mar Duplex Setúbal Miradouro: Set in the same building as the mid-tier option, this apartment gives you 2 full bedrooms

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Viso - views of the natural beauty

To the west of downtown, Viso is a popular neighborhood, and a lot of new buildings are going up. This side of town is closer to the beaches, the first one is about a 15 minute walk — very convenient for the summer months! It is also a 15 minute walk into the center of the city. 

Do note that Viso is on a hill, so be mindful of that should walking be a concern for you. But the hill also means many of the apartments have amazing panoramic views of the beaches and other beautiful places in the area.

📍Before you decide to move to this neighborhood, I suggest you book a hotel or vacation rental for at least a night or two to get a real feel for it at all hours. This will give you the best chance to see if living in Viso is a good choice for you.

• Budget Stay: Casa Pátio Boa Vista 4: This small 1-bedroom apartment is full of rustic charm and easily accessible to the center.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Suites Setúbal - River View: This 2-bedroom apartment offers a lot more space and sweeping views of the city and coast.
• Luxury Stay: Casa da Madou: While technically smaller indoors, this apartment has an incredible rooftop patio that adds a lot to the rental.

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Liceu - more space for families

This neighborhood is very residential with lots of large apartment buildings and is very family friendly. I find the area unappealing as it is a bit too far from the city center, and rather suburban, but I understand the appeal of more space at a slightly lower price point. It also has a large park — Vanicelos — which is great for kids or dogs and has padel and tennis courts. 

Also, this area is close to both the train station and the bus station.

📍Before you decide to move to this neighborhood, I suggest you book a hotel or vacation rental for at least a night or two to get a real feel for it at all hours. This will give you the best chance to see if living in Liceu is a good choice for you.

Given the location, there aren’t many hotels and rentals in this area but the Apartament with Castle View is right in the heart of it. This 1-bedroom apartment is the perfect homebase to scope out the area.

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Bela Vista - avoid

This is the one neighborhood that I would recommend avoiding. Not only is it far from the city but  if there is any dangerous part of Setúbal, this is it. 

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What Visa Can Americans Move to Portugal on?

I moved in 2021 on the D7 visa. The D7 is a passive income visa which was originally developed to entice retirees to Portugal. You could get it by showing you had rental income, dividends, pension, etc. Around the time I applied a lot of people were getting in with remote income, which is what I had. 

Now, you can no longer come on the D7 with remote income (it still works with passive income) but there is a new digital nomad visa, D8, which you can apply for instead.

Once you arrive you'll get a temporary residency which is good for two years, then can be renewed for an additional three years. After those first five years you can both get a permanent residency and apply for citizenship (that’s where I’m headed!). 

To apply for citizenship the only other requirement is that you have an A2 level of Portuguese. 

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Reflections on Three Years in Setúbal

I am just about at my three year mark here in Setúbal and the main thing I’ll say is that I am very happy with my decision to move here, I have a comfortable life. 

Before arriving I thought I’d be traveling to Lisbon often, that this small city wouldn’t have everything I wanted or needed. At this point I find myself going to Lisbon maybe once every two months. And almost never because I need to. Setúbal has it all.

However, sometimes I find I miss a more vibrant social scene — things like art galleries, and for me as a single person, the dating scene here can be tough. Sometimes I do find myself thinking ‘I wonder if this would be easier in a larger city’. 

But then I head down for the best seafood and a glass of wine on the beach, and I think how lucky I am to call this place home. 

All pictures, other than the hero image, are courtesy of depositphotos.com.