Castiglione del Lago is a picturesque little town on the shores of Lake Trasimeno, Italy’s fourth-largest lake. I bought a house here two years ago with my partner after spending lockdown nearby, and we’ve been gradually adjusting to Italian life ever since.
Living in Italy is a dream for so many, and I’ve been lucky enough to make it a reality — but it’s not all sunshine and roses! Here’s a guide to what life is really like in Castiglione as an expat.
Where Is Castiglione del Lago?
Castiglione del Lago is in Umbria, a central region known as the “green heart of Italy." It’s roughly halfway between Florence and Rome, and Umbria’s largest city, Perugia, is about 30 miles away.
It's also quick to visit Tuscany from Castiglione, as the town is only 5 miles from the regional border. Beautiful hilltop towns like Montepulciano and Cortona are easily accessible from this part of Umbria, so getaways into wine country are a must!
Short on time? Here's the cheat sheet:
💭Living in Castiglione del Lago means small town bliss but easy access to bigger cities when you want to get out.
🏠Since the town is so small, many expats find themselves scattered between the old town, the lakeside, or in one of the more rural communities on the town’s outskirts.
🛏️Start off by booking somewhere in centrally located in Old Town like Residence Castiglione, to give you a good starting point on your house hunt when you arrive.
📚Make your transition easier and get a headstart learning the language with Babbel.
☂️Although a small town in a lesser-known region,
☀️Castiglione del Lago is incredibly beautiful and offers some of the best food in all of Italy.
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A Neighborhood Guide to Castiglione del Lago
With a population of just over 15,000, Castiglione del Lago is not a big city, but there are a few different zones around the municipality.
The Historic Center
Castiglione del Lago's centro storico is small but stunning. It's on the official list of the most beautiful villages in Italy (i borghi più belli d'Italia), and it's easy to see why. It's a small peninsula sitting high on a hill, with spectacular lake views from one end and gorgeous countryside from the other. On a clear day, you can even see the towers of Montepulciano in Tuscany.
Castiglione's center has a fascinating history. There's been a settlement here since the Etruscans (pre-ancient Rome), and Hannibal famously fought a huge battle on the banks of the lake. The fortress and town walls date back to the early 1200s — you can visit the castle museum to learn more about the area's history.
Also in the center, you'll find pretty piazzas lined with bars, cafés, and excellent restaurants specializing in local delicacies.
The Lakeside
The lungolago is dotted with good restaurants and bars boasting amazing views. A couple of the bars have sunbeds, parasols, and equipment for beach activities (like pedalos and kayaks) available for rent.
The Frazioni
There are also several smaller settlements in the municipality of Castiglione del Lago, each with its own charm.
My house is in Vitellino, about 3 miles from Castiglione's center and the lake. There's a small community of Brits living in Gioiella, about 5 miles from the water's edge.
Other hamlets within the municipality include Sanfatucchio, Panicarola, and Pozzuolo. These are generally surrounded by countryside and agricultural land, with rolling hills, olive groves, and vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see.
Finding a Place to Call Home
Compared with large Italian cities like Rome, Milan, or Florence, Castiglione del Lago is a pretty cheap place to buy property. It can be harder to find rentals here, as so many people own their homes, but you're unlikely to pay much more than €500 a month in rent for a one- or two-bedroom apartment.
The average purchase price of a property depends on its size, location, and condition. My partner and I bought our three-bedroom house for €75,000. It’s a total bargain, but it’s away from the center and is definitely a fixer-upper — we started out with no hot water system and a very leaky roof!
If you’re looking for something in better shape, you could pay anything from €150,000 for a two-bedroom apartment to €1 million or more for a large estate with a pool and land. It all depends on your priorities and budget.
📍Before purchasing or renting something sight unseen, I recommend arriving to a hotel or vacation rental home and house hunt in person. This'll allow you to get a feel for the different areas and the town itself to make sure it's a good fit before any big commitments. I recommend staying in the city center when you first arrive:
- Budget Stay: Hotel La Torre: You'll miss out on some amenities like your own kitchen but the central location and views might make up for it.
- Mid-Tier Stay: Residence Castiglione: This pet-friendly accommodation offers studio apartments so you'll have more room while you settle in.
- Luxury Stay: Hotel Boutique Castiglione del Lago: Although you don't have a kitchen, you will get breakfast and dinner included during your stay so you can spend more time exploring.
Pros & Cons of Life in Castiglione del Lago
I genuinely love living in Castiglione del Lago — it very quickly reached the point where I couldn't see myself settling down anywhere else. That said, there are a few drawbacks to life here, so it's worth bearing these pros and cons in mind before you take the plunge.
Pro: Gorgeous Views
One of the best things about life in Castiglione is how beautiful it is. The pale-blue waters of the lake lapping up onto the shore, the castle standing proud at the top end of town, and the olive groves out in the country all make this place feel like something out of a movie.
Con: Limited Public Transport in Town
Castiglione is definitely a small town rather than a big city, and public transport around the municipality is limited.
If you're based in or very close to the historic center, you can get around on foot, so that shouldn't be a problem. But if, like me, you live further out, it can be very inconvenient. Trust me, walking to the grocery store in 100-degree heat isn’t for the faint-hearted!
Pro: Easy Access to Other Towns & Cities
Despite the limited public transport in and around town, it's easy to get to other parts of Italy by train or bus. Direct trains link Castiglione with Florence, Rome, Orvieto, Arezzo, and Cortona, to name just a few.
Castiglione del Lago is also one stop away from Terontola-Cortona station. From here, you'll find Intercity trains to places much further afield, including Bologna, Naples, Venice, and Trieste.
Con: Hard to Get Things Done
My house in Castiglione was a bargain, but it needs a lot of work. One small negative about the area is that it can be pretty tricky to get building work done on time. There are so many public holidays and celebrations that local hardware stores often close, and contractors are unavailable.
This can be inconvenient if you're in the middle of a replastering job or need to fix a leaky faucet!
However, this type of thing is common all over Italy — and it's actually one of the things I like about living here, too. It can be a bit of a nuisance, but I love having a way of life that encourages you to slow down.
Pro: Incredible Food & Drink
Umbria is a bit under the radar when it comes to food, but I think it's home to some of the best in Italy. Trasimeno specialties include local wines (especially rosé) and a tasty little bean that only grows in this area. There's plenty of freshwater fish from the lake available, and you'll also find cinta senese (a type of pork) and chianina beef, both hailing from just over the Tuscan border.
Many of the restaurants in town have associations with the Slow Food movement, with heaps of local dishes and ingredients on the menus. Eating well has never been easier.
Con: Quiet Winters
Castiglione is a popular place for tourists to visit in summertime. People come from all over Europe to bathe in the lake and cycle around its perimeter. Summers are bustling and busy, with bars and restaurants teeming with people every night.
The winter, however, is a different story. As people leave their holiday homes and hotels close for the season, restaurants and bars also shut for an annual break. November is particularly quiet, as businesses close for several weeks before the Christmas markets start.
The difference between summer and winter is pretty stark, and it can feel a little more lonely. I like to use the quieter season to knuckle down with work and spend my free time visiting other parts of Italy.
Tips for Living in Castiglione del Lago as an Expat
If you're considering moving to Castiglione del Lago, here are a few tips I wish I'd known before making my home here.
- Learn Italian: Basic Italian is so important if you want to make a life in Italy. Many of the bar and restaurant staff in Castiglione del Lago speak some English, but if you want to fit into the culture, you'll need some Italian. Babbel is a great app to get started learning but immersion will really help your listening and speaking skills the most.
- Get a car or bike: I walk everywhere, even to the grocery store, because I love an excuse to get out and about. But for most people, it's unrealistic to walk 3 miles each way to buy a loaf of bread. With limited public transport around the municipality, a car or bike is essential.
- Work remotely: Jobs are limited in the area, so if you’re hoping to come and find work, you’ll probably be out of luck. I’d recommend moving to Castiglione only if you have remote work lined up.
- Join a group: Making friends in a new town can be hard, but Castiglione del Lago has some good activity groups to join, including women's rights groups, lakeside yoga classes, and even power-walking groups.
Getting an Italian Visa
Unless you're from the EU, or are a Brit who moved to Italy before Brexit like I did, you'll need to sort out a visa before you officially make the move.
The most common ways to legally move to Italy are:
- On a work visa: You'll need to get hired by a company before you move here. Your best chance is to work for an international company, unless you speak Italian. Typically large companies are more likely than small ones to handle the hassle of getting this visa for you.
- On a student visa: This is a great option for those wanting to study in Italy but if you go this route, you'll probably not be able to live in Castiglione but instead somewhere with a university.
- On the new digital nomad visa: Italy just launched this visa option in 2024 and it's ideal for those who work remotely. With this visa you'll have the freedom to live anywhere in the country you choose.
Once you get your visa and move here, know that the bureaucratic fun has just begun! Depending on the visa, you'll need to transfer it into residency once you arrive. The steps for that will be dependent on your visa.
Life in Castiglione del Lago
There are pros and cons to living in Castiglione del Lago, just like anywhere in the world, but I wouldn’t change my life here for a second. If you're looking for a small yet scenic town, I urge you to add Castiglione del Lago to your list.
I spend my free time eating well, learning about the area's history, and relaxing in the sun. Will you try it yourself?
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