An Expat's Guide to Living in Bordeaux, France

What is Bordeaux like?

Located in Southwest France, Bordeaux is a beautiful city with a rich history. Its popularity skyrocketed when the high-speed TGV train cut travel time from Paris to just over two hours.

With the rise of remote work, everybody wanted to move to Bordeaux for a slower pace of life, proximity to the ocean, and quick access to the capital. It became especially popular with young professionals looking to escape the fast-paced life, start a family, or simply have a better work-life balance.

This unexpected popularity resulted in difficulties finding affordable accommodation, as there was simply more demand than offer. Luckily, Bordeaux is catching up with the demand and new neighborhoods are popping up in previously overlooked areas of the city.

While people often rave about the proximity to the ocean, I wouldn’t say it’s Bordeaux’s biggest perk (it’s actually an hour’s train ride away). Instead, the charm is within the city itself.

The entire historic center is listed as a UNESCO site, with stunning architecture and large pedestrianized areas. Cycling is the best way to get around, and bike lines are everywhere. Locals love spending time outside, strolling along the river, enjoying a picnic in numerous green areas, “apéro”, or after-work drinks.

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The Cost of Living in Bordeaux

The cost of living in Bordeaux is lower than in Paris, but it’s not that far off. 

The main difference is the accommodation, which is about 200€ cheaper in Bordeaux compared to the capital. That is not to say that accommodation in Bordeaux is cheap, it is just cheaper than in Paris! 

A one-bedroom apartment in Bordeaux will set you back €800–€1000 per month. It will vary depending on the neighborhood. You can find studios and unfurnished apartments for around €600, and that’s also how much you’ll pay for a room in a co-living.

I highly suggest getting a bike as it can save you a fortune in public transport costs, as a monthly pass is around €50.

Groceries are so personal, but I spend €50-60 a week as a vegan who shops generic brands in regular supermarkets – no bio and organic farmer markets for me. Eating out quickly adds up as an average meal in a restaurant is €15-20, coffee is around €5, and drinks are €10.

You’ll also have to consider health insurance if you’re not part of the French healthcare system, wine tours, and shopping. I recommend SafetyWing to those that need health insurance outside of their home country. They now offer 2 tiers of coverage based on what it is you're looking for.

On average, you’ll need €1000-1200 per month to live comfortably in Bordeaux. Housing cost will be your highest expense, so it will dictate your budget.

Best Areas to Live in Bordeaux

I lived in two different areas of Bordeaux, and I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to choose the right neighborhood, especially if you don’t have a car. Bordeaux doesn’t have a metro, and taking a tram can take time as the city is very spread out.

Chartrons

If you want to live in the center, but without crowds of tourists and partygoers walking under your window every night, head to Chartrons. It’s within walking distance from everything but still tucked away from the crowds of Rue Sainte Catherine and Saint Pierre neighborhood.

The downside of living in Chartrons is that it can be pricey and parking is limited.

La Bastide

If you prefer a calmer area, the Right River bank of Bordeaux is the one for you. La Bastide is quickly becoming the most popular neighborhood in Bordeaux, especially the new Belvédère district.

This area of Bordeaux offers modern housing, easy access to the city center, and plenty of parking space. The downside is that there’s just one tram line in the area.

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Tips for finding accommodation in Bordeaux

Finding a place to live in Bordeaux takes time. The housing market is tough and you’ll need a strong file to be considered by most landlords.

If you’re on a budget, look in places like Talence, Cenon, and Bègles, which are considered different communes despite being within the tram network.

If you don’t mind sharing a flat, check websites like La Carte de Colocs. It’s easier to join someone with a flat, especially if you don’t have a job lined up or a guarantor in France. Co-living options are also becoming popular, with large houses divided between 5-8 roommates. You’ll have to budget for a deposit though, which can be up to 2 months rent.

Also, check private student residences if you're a student or intern. Living in a residence saved me when I first moved to France for an unpaid internship and couldn't find a flat. 

📍We all like different things, and the best way to find the right neighborhood for you is to spend some time in the city and get a feel for different areas. Stay somewhere central, ideally around Place de la Bourse, and visit different neighborhoods from there. Here are some accommodation options:

• Budget Stay: Hôtel des Voyageurs Centre Bastide
• Mid-Tier Stay: Aparthotel Adagio Bordeaux Centre Gambetta
• Luxury Stay: Hôtel Bordeaux Clémenceau

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Getting a Visa to Live in Bordeaux

If you’re an EU citizen (like me), you don’t require a visa to live and work in France. 

Non-EU citizens can live in Bordeaux for up to 90 days, but if you want to stay longer than that you’ll have to apply for a Long Stay National visa. There are many different visa options you can apply for depending on your individual situation.

If you don’t have a specific reason to move to Bordeaux, like family, job, or studies, a popular option is to enroll in a French language course through the DUEF program!

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Pros and Cons of Living in Bordeaux

Bordeaux is a popular place to live in, but is it right for you? Here are the main pros and cons to consider before moving.

Pros:

• Lifestyle - I can’t stress this enough, but the laid-back, “boho” lifestyle is addictive. Think leisurely strolling along the Garonne River, having a picnic in the park with your friends, or enjoying Bordeaux wine in one of the countless restaurants after work.
• Location - Bordeaux truly has it all, a charming city center with numerous green spaces, and the perfect location between the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the mountains to the south.
• International - While fully English-speaking jobs are rare, the city is surprisingly international and popular with expats.

Cons:

• Job market - Fully English-speaking jobs are almost impossible to find unless you’re in tech.
• Language barrier - You’ll need to learn French if you want to truly integrate, and don’t get me started on trying to deal with French bureaucracy in English.
• Unpredictable Weather - Bordeaux has mild winters, but weeks without the sun can be dire. At the same time, the Atlantic coast can be far for long warm summers.

Depending on your language learning goals, I recommend these apps/platforms for learning or practicing French:

• Drops: Use the free version of this app for 5-minutes of vocab lessons a day. This is good for improving vocab but little else.
• Mondly: If you want to have a little bit more practice, this app is similar to Duolingo but has less silly prompts and more realistic phrases and sentences.
• Babbel: Babbel is similar to Mondly but also teaches cultural tidbits during the language lesson.
• iTalki: If you're more serious about learning to speak the language, this platform allows you to have 1:1 or group lessons with native teachers.

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Things to Know Before Moving Here

Bordeaux is a welcoming city with a large expat community, but it’s not the easiest place to integrate. 

• Speaking French is more important than you think. Most Bordeaux residents understand English but refuse to speak, especially when dealing with any government body.
• It is a student city and people come and go, so saying goodbye is a part of expat life.
• You can rent a free city bicycle for 10 months, it’s great if you’re on a budget!
• The cultural scene is great and there's always something going on, with the beautiful countryside for day trips in the Aquitaine region.

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Will You Move to Bordeaux?

I love living in Bordeaux and think it's a fantastic choice when deciding where to move in France. For those that want a laid back lifestyle and plenty of green space, it really is a great choice.

Looking for something else? See what it's like living in:

• Annecy
• Toulouse
• Paris

Hero photo courtesy of depositphotos.com.