Until about a decade ago, Puglia—like much of Southern Italy—was primarily visited by the “adventurous.” It was a far-off region, with sparse tourism and historical centers that felt almost abandoned, even in larger cities like Lecce, Bari, and Brindisi.
Fast forward to 2024, and Italy’s heel is far from hidden. Its whitewashed hilltop towns, ancient olive groves, turquoise coastline, and incredible food have likely graced your Instagram feed.
With the rise in tourism have come notable improvements. Graffiti-covered stone walls are now mostly clean, parking meters and cameras have replaced the “watchful” (criminal) eyes of locals who once offered to “keep your car safe,” and private companies have launched services connecting the region’s airports to nearby cities.
It's no surprise that vacationers dream of moving here—and some have made it a reality. Cities and towns throughout Puglia now host expats drawn to a simple, serene lifestyle under blue skies. After meeting my husband who's a Puglia local, we moved to Lecce and the surrounding area for 7 months. While we now live in Umbria in central Italy near Castiglione del Lago, I dove headfirst into life in Southern Italy, thinking that'd be our forever home.
If you’re considering moving to Puglia, this guide is for you.
Short on time? Here's the cheat sheet
💭Living in Puglia is ideal for expats looking for a plethora of beaches, scenic countryside, and picturesque towns and cities.
🏠The best cities to live in Puglia are Lecce and Brindisi but there are a number of small towns if that's more your style.
📚Make your transition easier and get a headstart learning the language with Mondly.
🛂If you're a non-European Union passport holder, you'll need to get a visa and then a Permesso di Soggiorno residency card to stay longer than 180-days.
💰The cost of living is often considered affordable by foreigners but why not earn travel rewards on all expenses with a Capital One Venture Card.
☂️Although it can be hard to find a long-term rental that's in good condition,
🏖️Puglia offers a slower pace of life, delicious food, and great weather.
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Why Choose Puglia as Your New Italian Home?
Like anywhere, there are pros and cons to living in Puglia. Most people, myself included, are drawn to its blue skies, fresh air, clean food, and relaxed pace. I still remember my first day in Lecce, walking through the historical centre and seeing old men playing cards as they sip their “caffe in ghiaccio."
It’s as though time moves more slowly, and people truly take a moment to enjoy the day.
Surrounded by sea, Puglia life revolves around beach walks, lido cocktails all summer, and plenty of fresh seafood. The relatively low cost of living appeals to many, especially if you're coming from the U.S. and have an international salary.
Best Places in Puglia for Expats
Puglia is a large region, taking over four hours to drive from one end to the other. In between, you’ll find towns of various sizes, each with unique pros and cons.
Deciding where to settle depends on your priorities and needs:
- Will you rely on public transport or will you get a driver’s license and a car?
- Are you bringing children, and if so, are you looking for an international school or a world-schooling community?
- Does a quiet country life suit you or are you drawn to the buzz of a city—or something in between?
A note on driving in Italy:
Driving rules are often more “suggestions” than law here, especially in Puglia. When I first took the wheel, I was shocked at how casually people ignored stop signs or parked wherever they liked! You really have to stay keep your eyes peeled. After 12 months of residency, most foreign nationals can no longer drive on their foreign license. Obtaining an Italian driver’s license requires a difficult theory test (in Italian) followed by a practical test.
Let’s explore a few popular expat communities in Puglia.
Brindisi for Expat Families
The port city of Brindisi, home to a UN base, attracts families from around the world. Many expats I’ve worked with appreciate the two international schools (one free), which can help children transition, especially for families on temporary assignments.
Brindisi’s historical center is charming, but many expats living in Brindisi choose villas on the outskirts or in the countryside. While I didn’t settle there, I’ve photographed families who did, and they love it—though, admittedly, they’re all confident drivers!
The city’s well-connected location makes it easy to get around. Between the train station, the airport with flights across Europe, and the port with ferries to Greece, it’s an ideal base for travel.
Brindisi sits on the Adriatic Coast so you’ll find beaches in every direction, and within an hour’s drive, popular destinations like Lecce, Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, Ostuni, and Alberobello await.
With schools, travel options, and local sites, it’s easy to see why Brindisi is a favorite for expats who enjoy a strong, if transient, international community.
Where to Live in Brindisi
I highly recommend you visit accommodation in-person before signing any long-term leases. I'll talk about this more in detail below but it's easier to be in the area when you start your house hunt. while you likely won't live right in the centro storico of Brindisi, I suggest you start your stay off there to be centrally located and to get a good feel of the city to see if it's a good fit for you.
📍Book a stay at one of these spots in city center of Brindisi while you house hunt:
- Budget Option: Dimora Kaemca: This one-bedroom apartment rental is a quick walk from the train station and right in the center, ideal to explore the coastal town.
- Mid-Tier Option: Zephir Apartments: Although a studio, the apartment has some separation of space to give you more comfort during a longer stay.
- Luxury Option: Ellements: Get more space and a spa bathroom when you book your stay in this historic building.
Smaller Towns for World-schooling/Unschooling Families
Puglia attracts many families seeking a natural, laid-back lifestyle, including world-schoolers and homeschoolers. Ceglie Messapica recently opened a Waldorf-inspired school, which has drawn even more families. Further south, in Salento, a growing homeschooling community offers additional support for alternative education.
These inland communities are slightly removed from the coast but are worth considering if you’re after a close-knit community with a focus on self-directed learning.
It’s worth keeping in mind that the locals typically become more laid-back the further south you venture so consider that many things take time especially if purchasing a home to renovate is your goal.
Where to Live in Ceglie Messapica
📍Although there are other beautiful towns to choose from throughout the countryside of Puglia, Ceglie Messapica is a great choice. If you're eyeing it, I recommend first getting a short-term stay to scope it out and house hunt in-person.
- Budget Option: Domus Bama: Located right in centro storico, this apartment has all the basics covered as an affordable option.
- Mid-Tier Option: Dimore i Messapi Suites: This one-bedroom rental offers a more charming interior, with white-washed and stone walls and a private hot tub.
- Luxury Option: Casa Maestra: Moving to Puglia with your family? This two-bedroom villa offers enough space to comfortably sleep 4.
Lecce for Young Individuals & Couples
Lecce, known as “The Florence of the South” for its Baroque beauty, is large enough to host a university yet compact enough to be walkable. When I first visited Lecce (my husband’s hometown), I was stunned by the Baroque architecture; every building felt like a work of art.
The city is especially attractive to younger expats as there are many locals who have returned from Milan or abroad. I love that Lecce always has something happening year-round, though keep in mind that the historical center gets packed in summer.
Finding a rental long-term is usually easier outside the city walls. I would recommend a second-floor apartment to avoid the winter humidity that can make ground-floor living surprisingly chilly /and clothes moldy!).
Where to Live in Lecce
📍Just like in Brindisi, you'll want to house hunt in-person in Lecce, too. Book a stay at one of these spots while you find your long-term rental in Lecce:
- Budget Option: Mediterranee Suite: Enjoy the typical white-washed walls of Puglia even from within this one-bedroom suite.
- Mid-Tier Option: Il Garbino Suite and Apartment: Moving to Lecce with your family? This two-bedroom apartment has more space and a shared outdoor patio to enjoy the warm summers and mild winters.
- Luxury Option: LuLeccio: Choose from a variety of room and apartment sizes, all within a historic building and with impressive views of the beautiful scenery in Lecce.
The Logistics of Moving to Puglia
While those are just 3 of the charming towns you could choose to move to in Puglia, in my opinion they're good places to start your search. Before you book your flight though, there are a few logistics you'll want to keep in mind when deciding if living in Puglia is right for you and your family.
Cost of Living
A one-bedroom apartment in an undiscovered village might cost you less than €400 a month. For more space or a lively town, expect to budget around €650.
A coffee costs €1.10 at the bar, while cocktails start around €5.
When I first moved here, I found it refreshing how affordable day-to-day life was compared to northern Italy, where we lived for a while before coming back south.
Although living costs have risen, it’s possible for a single person to live modestly on about €1000 a month. As a couple, we manage comfortably on €1200 monthly, excluding extras like travel or dining out.
Getting a Job
Like much of Italy, job opportunities can be limited in Puglia. The UN in Brindisi is a significant employer, but entry-level jobs in hospitality and tourism typically require Italian and may not cover living expenses.
Specialized skills can be in demand; I was once offered a position at a local Pilates studio due to my training.
From my own experience and stories shared with me by fellow expats the best option is remote work with an international salary. Some foreigners also find casual work tutoring or start their own businesses. Personally, I’ve found that running my own business lets me enjoy the flexibility and freedom I was seeking when I moved here.
Finding a Rental
Finding a long-term rental can be challenging because summer rentals are far more profitable for property owners. It’s often easier to secure a place in less touristy towns and those slightly inland.
Inspect any property thoroughly before signing a lease, as local standards for "habitable" can vary. When we were searching, we walked into several places that needed serious work, yet the agents were cheerfully calling them “ready to go!”
A long-term rental agreement is required to obtain a Permesso di Soggiorno (more on that below), so Booking.com or Airbnb won’t usually be an option for stays longer than three months.
Keep in mind that in Italy, the renter pays for the realtor, even if they didn't hire that person. If the owner of the apartment or villa lists their rental with a realtor, you'll be required to pay the realtor fee if you decide to rent. The cost for this can vary but typically it's 2 months rent.
Visas & Legalities
Unless you hold a European Union passport or are married to someone who does, you’ll need determination and patience to legally live and work in Italy. Obtaining a Permesso di Soggiorno residency card is necessary.
While a new digital nomad visa theoretically exists, it’s difficult to obtain due to limited availability. Sponsorship by a company or an Elective Residency Visa (which doesn’t permit work and requires a significant passive income) are other options.
Kat, the founder of A Way Abroad, also lives in Italy, but in the northeastern corner in Trieste. She, an American, and her husband, a Colombian, were able to legally move to Italy because her husband was able to obtain a job that sponsored his work visa. Kat was then able to legally join along on a family visa. If you dream of going this route, just know that the job market isn't great in Italy and getting a job, especially one that'll sponsor your visa, can be challenging but as they can attest, not impossible.
The Downside of Living in Southern Italy
Living in Puglia is different from enjoying it as a tourist. A getaway to Puglia is absolutely dreamy and while living here can be great, it's not without its cons.
Finding a long-term rental is often the biggest challenge. We struggled ourselves, and it took weeks of frustrating showings to finally land a place that met our needs.
Be prepared for some local quirks, like the trash that accumulates on beaches in the low-season when they’re not regularly cleaned. It reflects broader attitudes that are gradually changing but can be frustrating to deal with on a day-to-day basis.
Will you Move to Puglia?
Puglia is especially appealing for those planning a 3-6 month stay during the region’s best months. But many people overlook the few challenges that were too much for us, choosing instead to embrace “Puglia-time” (where everything takes a while) while sipping an affordable Spritz in a centuries-old piazza.
So, what do you think—will you move to Puglia?
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