An Expat's Guide to Living in Viña del Mar, Chile

Viña del Mar: Chile’s Garden City

A large tourist city that feels like a big town, “La Ciudad Jardín” is part of the Valparaíso region – five miles from the street art-filled streets of Chile’s cultural capital. Whereas the city of Valparaíso is a little rough around the edges and charmingly chaotic, Viña is upscale and orderly.

It reminds me of Santa Monica and Australia's Gold Coast. 

Viña del Mar gives me the best of both worlds. I get to enjoy the beachy environment and lush parks on my doorstep while a dose of culture in Valparaíso is a short ride by bus, metro, or Uber. 

‍

Climate in Viña del Mar

Viña has a Mediterranean climate characterized by hot, dry summers (December-February) and mild winters (June-August) prone to the occasional downpour.

In my opinion, March, April, September, October, and November bring the best weather to the Valparaíso region and other parts of Chile.

I’d recommend moving to Viña del Mar in early fall. I don't advise arriving during the summer months; the city is incredibly busy and housing is expensive. Winters are lovely for quiet conditions and a pleasant climate.

Expat-Friendly Neighborhoods in Viña del Mar

Viña’s city center rests on the west bank of the river around Plaza Vergara. I’d recommend finding accommodation in one of these calmer neighborhoods. 

‍

St Martin/Poniente

This beachside zone is the best district to live in Viña del Mar as a foreigner. This area refers to streets bounded by the main thoroughfares of San Martín and Libertad. It’s walkable, flat, and well-serviced by supermarkets, cafes, hotels, and conveniences.

📍Before moving to St. Martin sight unseen, I recommend staying a few nights in a hotel or vacation rental to get a feel for the area. Consider booking a stay at:

• Budget Stay: Hostal Gloria Viña: Here you can be in a great location but without paying a high price, plus instead of typical hostel dorms, this offers private rooms.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Esencia Hotel Boutique: Be right in between San Martín and Libertad at this cozy boutique hotel.
• Luxury Stay: Pullman Vina del Mar San Martin: Stay just steps from Acapulco Beach at this luxurious, pet-friendly hotel.

‍

Reñaca

Reñaca is a trendy suburb popular with students, surfers, and younger folk. Accommodation is slightly more expensive than the main city. Micros (local buses) take 15 minutes from Libertad and you can also walk there along the seafront. 

📍Before moving to Reñaca sight unseen, I recommend staying a few nights in a hotel or vacation rental to get a feel for the area. Consider booking a stay at:

• Budget Stay: Litorina Beach House: For those looking for the quiet life, stay just outside of Reñaca in the hills - just know you'll want a car here.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Del Alto Reñaca: This 2-bedroom apartment is in a quieter part of town but still just a few blocks from the ocean.
• Luxury Stay: Terrazas de Cochoa: Enjoy a 1-bedroom apartment right on the water where you can soak up the views day and night.

‍

Recreo

This hilly district near Viña del Mar's famous Flower Clock has a boho vibe with lovely neighborhood cafes and sea-view housing. It’s a good place to look for accommodation but do consider the terrain if you’re without a car. 

📍Before moving to Recreo sight unseen, I recommend staying a few nights in a hotel or vacation rental to get a feel for the area. Consider booking a stay at:

• Budget Stay: Casa Recreo: This 1-bedroom apartment is small but affordable, with everything you'll need for a comfortable stay.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Antigua Viña Bed and Breakfast: The rooms here are simple but clean and in a perfect location to explore the rest of the city.
• Luxury Stay: Sea View Apartment: Need more space? This 3-bedroom apartment is ideal for those moving here with their family.

‍

Con Con

This is a seaside city north of Viña with a community feel and modern condos popular with young professionals and couples. Its calm beaches are some of the few places where swimming – with caution – is permitted. Apartments are more affordable than but close enough to the tourist city.

📍Before moving to Con Con sight unseen, I recommend staying a few nights in a hotel or vacation rental to get a feel for the area. Consider booking a stay at:

• Budget Stay: Anyrcoy: This homestay has a variety of rooms based on the amenities and size you need, all just 2 kilometers from Blanca Beach.
• Mid-Tier Stay: Dulce Amor: This 3-bedroom apartment offers sea views and a shared swimming pool and fitness area.
• Luxury Stay: Coraceros: Stay right on the coast at this 4-bedroom apartment, which also has a swimming pool and fitness area.

‍

Cost of Living in Viña del Mar

Viña del Mar is an affordable place to live for those earning a decent income in a strong currency, especially when sharing costs with a partner. Chilean salaries don't always reflect the cost of living and most high-paying jobs are concentrated in Santiago. 

Many landlords rent apartments long-term between March and November and then switch to nightly rates December-February. Short-term rental sites like Airbnb and Vrbo are the natural starting points for testing the waters. You can also rent or sublet through expat groups on Facebook. Do be mindful of scams though.

Supermarket food can be expensive: Lider, Unimarc, and Santa Isabel are cheaper but Jumbo carries more international brands. It’s better to stock up on high-quality produce, fish, meat, cheese, pulses, and cereals at the bi-weekly feria (Wednesdays and Saturdays). 

‍

Safety in Viña del Mar

Chile has a reputation for being one of the safest countries in South America. Crime is, sadly, on the increase although it’s more prominent in large urban areas. Viña del Mar is a safer city than Valparaíso and Santiago with petty theft and car break-ins being the main threats. Phone snatching is also common, especially around the bus terminal and city center. 

I feel safe going about my day. Unless I’m going to the theater or art cinema in Plaza Vergara, I avoid this area at night. Uber works well in Viña/Valparaíso and is safe. I wouldn’t recommend traveling alone on micros at night, especially women. 

I often work from my laptop in cafes – most are laptop-friendly which is a huge perk for remote workers. I’m vigilant when carrying my gear and I wouldn’t recommend sitting outside with a laptop or leaving it unattended while using the bathroom. 

‍

Visas for Foreigners in Chile

Chile doesn’t have a digital nomad visa but it’s a country that feels welcoming to remote workers or those running an online business. The National Migration Government lists all information for foreigners visiting or moving to Chile.  

Most tourists are eligible for a 90-day Temporary Stay in Chile. This initial stay may be extended for a further 90 days online. Otherwise, you will have to leave the country for a fresh stamp. This is what I did for the first year before submitting my application for Temporary Residence. Foreigners living in Viña can take a bus over the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina or catch a flight to other countries from Santiago Airport. 

Upon arrival, you will receive a slip of paper from the Policía de Investigaciones de Chile (PDI). This must be kept safe and shown upon departure. If you lose it, you’ll need to visit a PDI office in Chile for a replacement.

‍

Pros & Cons of Life in Viña del Mar 

The Pros

It Has an Outdoorsy Vibe

It’s easy to spend all day at the beach. The only downside is that the Humboldt Current prohibits swimming (and the water is very, very cold). However, the beaches are linked by a pedestrian path and cycleway.

There are outdoor gyms and loads of sports activities around Playa del Deporte (Sport Beach). These include free Zumba classes, volleyball games, and affordable training sessions. My advice is to buy a bike or invest in a pair of rollerblades, that’s how Viñamarinos have fun!

It's Great Base to Discover Chile & Other Countries

A two-hour drive along Ruta 68, Santiago’s Arturo Merino Benitez is the closest international airport. Viña's bus terminal is served by regional and long-distance buses. It’s handy, but not essential, to have a car if you are staying long-term and want to venture off-path.

‍

The Cons

Building Community Takes Time

Viña del Mar isn’t a popular place for digital nomads and its expat population is small. In my opinion, couples and families will have an easier time than a solo nomad. Santiago Speaks host ad hoc meet-ups in bars. Playa del Deporte is an awesome spot to make friends with similar interests – particularly if you speak Spanish.

There Aren’t Masses of City Activities on the Doorstep

Viña del Mar doesn’t have many things to do typical of a large city, such as galleries and museums. However, it’s easy to hop over to Valparaíso for cultural tourism. Below is a snapshot of how you can spend your downtime. 

For that, you might prefer Santiago or Buenos Aires.

‍

Things to Do in Viña del Mar

Although I said you'll miss out on a lot of big city amenities by moving to Viña del Mar, that doesn't mean there aren't things to do here. A few of my top recommendations include:

• Eat at Viña’s incredible cafes and restaurants. La Farine, Cafetería Natural Bohío, La Flor de Chile, Cobrizo, and Glasgow Pub are just some of my favorites. 
• See sunset at the Con Con dunes or take a sandboarding class. 
• Explore the National Botanical Garden. Bikes are available and they have fairs and food trucks on weekends. 
• Walk the paths between Viña del Mar, Reñaca, Con Con, and Valparaíso.
• Learn to surf at Playa la Boca (Con Con) and tackle bigger waves in Reñaca. 
• Further afield, you can ski in the Andes, hike in La Campana National Park, hop on wine trails, and take road trips along the Coast of the Poets.

‍

‍

What to Know Before Moving to Viña del Mar

As a final thought, there are a few more things you should keep in mind if you're dreaming of a life in Viña del Mar. A few of the top things I wish I knew before moving to Chile are:

The Language Barrier Is Real

My partner warned me that English isn’t widely spoken in Chile and that “Chilean” Spanish differs from Castilian. Even knowing this, I was surprised by how challenging learning Spanish in Chile has been! Arriving with token DuoLingo phrases, I quickly enlisted a teacher for private lessons. My advice is to learn some basics and sign up for classes with a Chilean teacher.

If you want to get a head start on this before arriving, I suggest trying iTalki. This platform allows you to speak 1:1 or in group settings with native teachers. This way you can ensure you're getting used to the Chilean accent and learning how to speak Spanish the Chilean way!

Online Orders Are Tricky

Getting items mailed from overseas is unreliable and it’s nigh-impossible to order items online from Chilean businesses without a bank account or tax ID (RUT). You can buy most things in Mall Marina or downtown markets but consider stocking up on luxuries and preferred brands you might miss. For me, that’s vitamins, Yorkshire Tea, and McVitie's biscuits. 

Card Is King

Card is king in Viña del Mar; Wise works wonderfully to pay for things. Even small businesses and street vendors prefer card payments. It's a great idea to bring dollars or euros and exchange them for pesos as ATM withdrawals are costly. 

‍

Are You Moving to Viña del Mar?

Personally, I've loved living in Chile and am happy that the opportunity presented itself for my partner and me to move to Viña del Mar. As the fourth largest city here, there are still plenty of things to do but know that it won't compete with the likes of Santiago in terms of a big city feel.

For those that love spending time in nature and prefer a more laid back environment, I think you'll love living in Viña del Mar as much as I have.

Hero picture courtesy of depositphotos.com.