An Expat's Guide to Living in Toulouse, France

Why Toulouse?

Toulouse is one of the fastest growing cosmopolitan cities in France. It’s nicknamed La Ville Rose (The Pink City) because of its signature faded red brick architecture that makes it stand out from most cities in France.

Because of the work opportunities, in both international companies and top universities, Toulouse offers a rich culture of good food, cultural activities and friendly locals.

The French city boasts a varied calendar of cultural events all year round; from rugby games at the Stade to outdoor activities along Garonne River in the spring and summer. The public transport is highly developed for easy access across town, but you'll also find local residents cycling down Canal du Midi. And with a balmy temperate climate, you can reliably experience all four seasons with sunny weather in the summer. 

Maybe it was the pink brick or the green spaces, but this beautiful city charmed me. I visited over 20 cities and towns in France while driving around for 3 weeks in March 2023, and Toulouse was simply unique. Isn’t there something so seductive about a place that is unlike any other? 

Enough fangirling. Let’s talk about the practical stuff.

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The Cost of Living in Toulouse

Living costs in Toulouse are said to be more favorable than larger cities like Paris, Lyon and Bordeaux. But in my experience, the rates aren’t far off. Toulouse is known for affordable housing with the average one-bedroom apartment going for €600-800 depending on the neighborhood.

However, the low prices stop there.

My average weekly grocery shop, for a single woman, was around €60-70 (that’s with a generic brand, non-specialty diet). A mid-range restaurant costs around €30 per person, and cheap eats—even McDonald’s—will set you back at least €8-10. Bear in mind that taxes will also impact your cost of living in Toulouse.

Neighborhoods in Toulouse You Should Know

Even though Toulouse is the fourth largest city in France, it’s quite compact. That is, because of the metro, it only takes 25 minutes or so to get from one end to the other. That said, there are some neighborhoods that stand out. 

If moving to Toulouse, I suggest you consider checking out these areas to find your next apartment:

• Capitole - Most central neighborhood in Toulouse, with the town hall and opera house. It's part of old town and has a buzzing nightlife on Thursdays.
• St Cyprien - Situated across Pont Neuf bridge, St Cyprien is the "cool" neighborhood of the city, with a gorgeous park, Prairie des Filtres.
• Blagnac - Technically a commuter town located 20 minutes drive from the city center where the international aerospace companies are located.
• Minimes - Close to Toulouse Business School and home to the best local bakery along the Canal du Midi.
• Carmes - Right in the historic center with spectacular architecture and high end restaurants serving local dishes.
• Rangueil - Student city hotspot with access to metro lines.

📍If possible, wait to view apartments in-person before signing any contracts online. I suggest staying somewhere central, like Capitole, when you first arrive and house hunt from there. I recommend booking your stay at:

• Budget Stay: L'authentique: This 1-bedroom apartment is relatively small but has everything you'll need for a comfortable and central stay while looking for your new home.
• Mid-Tier Stay: L'élégant: Get a little more space and more elegant decor at this nearby 1-bedroom.
• Luxury Stay: Cœur Capitole: Moving with your family? This 4-bedroom apartment has enough room for you all right in the heart of the city center.

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A quick word on the rental market in Toulouse

Did someone say the rental market in Toulouse is cut throat? Yes, according to the commenters on Facebook expat groups that I questioned before my move. 

It makes sense. It’s a popular student city, and the rental laws in France are highly weighted towards the tenant. Therefore, landlords are extremely careful when choosing a candidate.

Unfortunately, I was hopelessly optimistic that things would be different for me. 

Don’t make the same mistakes as me when moving to France; prepare yourself as much as possible. 

To be successful in the Toulousian rental market, here are some quick tips (the following applies to other cities):

• Prep your dossier: Your “dossier” is your collection of documents needed to apply to rent. It includes your ID documents, job contract, last three payslips, visa (if necessary) or residency card. If you are self-employed, you’ll need proof of your tax registration in France, and your tax return. Most agencies and landlords also require a guarantor. You must have all the same documents for your guarantor to present. 
• Have enough in the bank: You need to be able to put down 1x rent for a deposit, 1x rent for your first month, and agency fees. Agency fees can be expensive, so overall I recommend saving 3x rent. 
• Be persistent: Agencies in Toulouse have extremely high volumes of requests, so it’s common to go ignored for some time. If you can, visit offices in person and explain your situation. 

The most popular sites for apartment hunting in this city are PAP and SeLoger. Facebook expat groups are also fantastic avenues but be mindful of scams. 

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Getting a Visa to Live in Toulouse

If you’re an EU citizen (like me), you don’t require a visa to live and work in France. You can apply for a residency permit (carte du sejour) if you want to, but it’s not obligatory.

Non-EU citizens must apply for a short or long-term visa and residency permit if you’re planning on staying for longer than 90 days.

There are several types of visas available, depending on your situation, including:

• Study and training visas
• Long-term repeated seasonal work 
• Long-term work or self employment visa

The France-Visa website outlines everything you need to know. If you're serious about learning French, one of the best ways to move to France is on a student visa. 

Note: France does NOT recognize digital nomads and being an employee of a foreign company in France is illegal. Your company must open a French entity and employ you from there to abide by local tax laws. If you're interested in working remotely while abroad, consider these countries with digital nomad visas.

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Pros and Cons of Living in Toulouse

Toulouse has a lot going for it, but is it the right fit for you? Here are some honest pros and cons:

Pros of moving to Toulouse

• Location, location, location – A stone's throw away from Pyrenees mountains, Bordeaux, Biarritz, the Mediterranean coast, and the Spanish border.
• Good weather – Temperate climate with warm summers and mild(ish) winters. Though note that the Midi Pyrenees region is known for fog!
• Excellent social life – Art galleries, live music, book fairs, cinema festivals, sports events, historical sites, and so much more. Meeting friends was simple in Toulouse!

Cons of moving to Toulouse

• Far from Paris – No fast trains to Paris. (Consider Bordeaux instead.)
• The language barrier – Though some Toulouse residents speak English, you need a good handle on French to live a good quality of life.
• Bureaucratic headaches – French bureaucracy can be obstructive. 

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How Not to Fail at Living in Toulouse (Like I Did)

Now, I bet you’re wondering how I managed to fail at living in Toulouse when I clearly did a ton of research and have such affection for the city. 

I won’t bury the lead any longer. 

Ultimately, I wasn’t able to secure a permanent residence because landlords aren’t kind to the self-employed. Despite having a high income and two French guarantors, I faced rejection after rejection.

Fear not, there are ways to succeed!

Here are the key mistakes I made before attempting my move to France: 

• Broken French is not enough – I was quite proud of my French but I was swiftly humbled. Unless you’re near-fluent, I recommend learning French as soon as possible. Your daily life will be much simpler. Babbel or iTalki are great apps to learn.
• Underestimating the bureaucracy – Everything takes far longer than you might expect. Bear this in mind when budgeting for Airbnbs in your new city while apartment hunting. I recommend having at least six months of expenses stashed.
• Not securing a French job – If landlords see you have a French employment contract, your apartment hunt will be far easier. English roles are possible in the local job market if you look hard enough.

As a personal aside, being partnered, related to, or even friends with a local will help you leaps and bounds. I had zero contacts before arriving in Toulouse and that was to my detriment. “Who you know” really helps!

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Should You Move to The Pink City?

Absolutely, yes! If Toulouse is calling you, give it a shot. Just make sure you have your ducks in a row beforehand, in terms of bureaucracy, and you’ll be in a much better position than I was. 

This city offers a vibrant local culture, delicious food and sublime vistas along the river Garonne. So it will always be one of the best cities I attempted to settle down in.

Bonne chance!

All pictures courtesy of depositphotos.com.