Beautiful beaches, natural beauty, and island life were not necessarily things that came to mind when I thought about Japan before I moved to Okinawa.
However, I’m glad I gave Okinawa, Japan a chance, as it's a special place in the country that is commonly referred to as the "Hawaii of Japan." Just a three-hour plane ride away from Japan’s mainland is Okinawa, the largest island of the Ryukyu Islands found in the Pacific Ocean.
I'll walk you through what it's really like living in Okinawa and if you should take on the opportunity like I did.
Short on time? Here's the cheat sheet:
💭Living in Okinawa is a great option for those that want to dip there toe into living abroad.
🏠The best neighborhoods for foreigners are Chatan and Sunabe.
🛏️Start off by booking a stay in the center of Chatan, like at M's Stay, and exploring in person to find your long-term rental.
📚Make your transition easier and get a headstart learning the language with Babbel or iTalki.
🛂Most Americans moving to Okinawa have SOFA Status and don't have to worry about a visa. If this doesn't apply to you, you'll need either a working holiday visa or work visa to move here.
💰Also considered more affordable than other cities in Japan, your daily cost of living can still add up. Earn travel rewards on all expenses with a Capital One Venture Card.
☂️You'll have to deal with a hot and humid climate...
🏖️But will get the unique opportunity to live in one of the world's few blue zones.
We’re not a regular travel blog; we’re a collection of women living around the world, all with different backgrounds, jobs, desires, & nationalities. What do we have in common? A passion for life abroad. Each article is written from the 1st-hand perspective of a woman who has actually done or experienced what she writes about.
Learn more about the author by clicking her bio pic at the start or end of each article.
Life As an Expat
Having lived in Okinawa, Japan for three years, I can confidently say it is a haven for expats, especially for those who are American. Not only do Okinawans have their own rich culture that dates back hundreds of years, but the culture itself is intertwined with American culture too.
Here you will see American burger stands, bilingual menus, prices in dollars, currency exchanges around every corner, and even a one-of-a-kind dish called taco rice.
Now, America’s impact on Okinawa is due to the American military presence here. So there are a lot of military installations on the island. Therefore, many of the Americans here are military personnel, including active duty members, civilian workers, spouses, and dependents.
There are a few areas of the island where American foreigners live and work that make these neighborhoods great for expats, such as the Chatan and Sunabe areas. The further you find yourself from these areas, the less of the American influence is (and the less likely you will come across a person who speaks English).
Language
When it comes to language here, Japanese and English are the two main languages. If you decide to live near the more “Americanized” parts of Okinawa, then you will hear English a lot more. If you intend to work on one of the U.S. military bases, you’ll need to know English, and speaking Japanese is not always required.
However, if you do intend to work in the general economy, knowing how to speak Japanese is typically a must, unless you pursue a childcare position at the international schools or a gig teaching English.
Depending on your goals, I recommend these apps/platforms for language learning:
- Drops: Use the free version of this app for 5-minutes of vocab lessons a day. This is good for improving vocab but little else.
- Mondly: If you want to have a little bit more practice, this app is similar to Duolingo but has less silly prompts and more realistic phrases and sentences.
- Babbel: Babbel is similar to Mondly but also teaches cultural tidbits during the language lesson.
- iTalki: If you're more serious about learning to speak the language, this platform allows you to have 1:1 or group lessons with native teachers.
Cost of Living
The cost of living can be high in areas where Americans reside, since local property management companies know that the American government will pay high prices for rent. The southern and northern regions of the island do have affordable housing, such as the areas around Naha and Nago.
With the cost of living so high in the central part of the island, you’d think that wages would reflect that. But sadly, no. The minimum wage in Okinawa is fairly low, especially for those expats coming from the Americas or Europe. This is why many locals decide to work on the U.S. military bases, as wages are higher and reflect the standard minimum wage in the States.
When it comes to dining and grocery shopping however, I found that the island was much cheaper in these regards compared to the United States. During my time in Okinawa, which was from 2021 to 2024, the U.S. dollar was strong. So I was able to dine at restaurants more frequently than I could in the States, especially when prepared foods at 711 are 700 Yen (~5).
With this in mind however, Japan is not as “cheap” as other Asian countries, especially those in Southeast Asia. Furthermore, Okinawa is an island, so many grocery items must be brought on to the island, so some products at the grocery store cost more money than they would be on mainland Japan.
Where to Live
As mentioned before, Chatan and Sunabe are great places to live for foreigners. The areas south and north of these neighborhoods, such as Ginowan, Kadena Town, and Yomitan are where most Americans reside.
When it comes to Chatan, you’ll be by Araha Beach and American Village. If you choose to reside in Sunabe, you’ll be near popular diving sites, local restaurants, and dive bars. Both of these areas are great for families.
How to Get SOFA Status
I was a U.S. civilian living overseas with SOFA Status, which stands for “Status of Forces Agreement,” which is an agreement of residency between Japan and the United States. It is not a visa, but a status. When traveling through to immigration in a Japanese airport, there is a special line for SOFA members.
I was able to reside in Okinawa due to my husband’s job. To get SOFA Status, you’d have to be a military member or get a job that offers SOFA Status with the U.S. government on a military base in Okinawa. My husband was not active duty but a civilian, so jobs are available for non-service members as well. Although my husband had a higher “rank” as a civilian employee, there are lower level/entry level jobs that provide SOFA Status. You can find these jobs through usajobs.gov.
If you aren’t American, you won’t qualify for these jobs that offer SOFA Status. Therefore, you’ll want to try to acquire a work visa - basically a visa sponsored by your job in order for you to stay in Okinawa longer than 90 days.
Another option for a handful of nationalities is to move to Japan on a working holiday visa.
Pros of Living in Okinawa
Beach Scene & Mild Winters
If you enjoy scuba diving, paddle boarding, fishing, beach combing, or simply visiting clear water beaches, then there is plenty to do. Additionally, there are historical sites, temples, ruins, and caves to explore too. There are hiking trails here as well, which are great places to explore during the mild winter months.
Culture of the Ryukyu Kingdom
Apart from Japanese culture, the Ryukyu culture on Okinawa is of its own. From Eisa dancers to dragon boat races to Okinawa soba, I enjoyed learning about the island’s cultural history during my three years there.
Safety
Japan in general is a fairly safe country. Crime is low. It's a safe place to raise children and grow a family.
Outside of Okinawa there are a handful of other great places to live in Japan that also offer a sense of security, plenty of things to do, and a unique culture.
Cons of Living in Okinawa
Lack of Public Transportation
Unlike mainland Japan, Okinawa does not have a strong public transit system. There are some buses and a train in Naha, but for the most part, you may want to consider purchasing a car. Due to this, used cars are fairly affordable here.
Hot & Humid Climate
As a tropical paradise, Okinawa is hot during the summer, as well as extremely humid. Many people use a dehumidifier in homes in order to reduce the risk of mold. Mold grows so quickly here, which can be a downside for people with mold sensitivity issues.
Not a Big City Lifestyle
Okinawa island does not have a big city vibe like Tokyo or Osaka does. The island offers a slower way of living compared to other cities in mainland Japan. Although the cities here are smaller, there are still plenty of shopping centers, restaurants, bars, and entertainment options to enjoy here.
What I wish I knew Before Moving to Okinawa
While I really loved my years living in Okinawa, there are a few things I wish I knew before moving here that would have made the transition a bit smoother.
Carry Japanese Yen cash
Although major grocery stores and retail shops take card, it is still widely popular to pay in cash here. Therefore, you’ll see some businesses only accept cash.
Healthcare here is complicated, if you arrive here as a civilian with SOFA Status.
There is one big hospital on Camp Foster and a clinic on Kadena Air Force Base where active duty go. Civilians that work for the U.S. military can get appointments with doctors on base but only a “standby basis,” which makes things difficult if you need to seek “on-going” medical work, such as giving birth.
Furthermore, some off-base hospitals can deny American civilians with SOFA Status.
Personally, I gave birth off base, and it was an incredible experience. I did have to hire a translator that went to every appointment with me. Additionally, if you are seeking to get SOFA status through a job on usajobs.gov, please be aware that you will have to pass a medical evaluation.
Daijoubou is a must-use phrase in Japanese.
Aside from konnichiwa and arigatou, you’ll want to learn the phrase “daijoubou,” which translates to “it’s ok” or “all good.” Pronounced “die-jo-boo,” this simple phrase can get you far, as it’s so commonly used.
Okinawa is a blue zone
A “blue zone” is an area where life expectancy far surpasses the global average. Therefore, take in the lifestyle and the food of the Okinawan people as much as you can. Your body will thank you!
Will You Try Living in Okinawa?
With a unique, blended culture, fantastic nature, and a calming pace of life, I loved my time living out in the Pacific. Whether you're moving here as a military family, have civilian status like us, or are from a different country with a different motive to move all together, living in Okinawa really is something special.
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