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An Expat's Guide to Living in Istanbul

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Considered the "gateway to the east" and the largest city in Türkiye (Turkey), Istanbul is a bustling metropolis with more than 3,600 years of rich history, culture and traditions to explore. I was drawn to Istanbul because of its unique blend of Eastern and Western culture.

Istanbul boasts iconic landmarks such as the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Grand Bazaar. You can also easily access cities like Cappadocia (the hot air balloons!) and the seaside resort town of Izmir.

I decided to spend my European summer here because the city offers everything: food, historic landmarks, diverse culture, warm and inviting people, and a growing scene of young professionals. If you've been considering Istanbul as your next home away from home, let me share everything I know about living in Istanbul.

Short on time? Here's the cheat sheet:

💭Living in Istanbul means a bustling city environment, an incredible culture and history, and a delicious food.

🛂Many foreigners scope the area first on a tourist visa before deciding if applying for a residence permit is right for them.

🏠Istanbul is divided by the European side and Asian side. For a lower cost of living, I recommend living in the Asian side.

🛏️I recommend staying at a hotel or apartment rental right when you arrive to house hunt in person. Book your stay at Mood in Flats for a central location and plenty of space to settle in.

💰The cost of living will vary based on your lifestyle and which neighborhood you choose to live in but in general, it's a relatively affordable place to live. Earn travel rewards on all expenses with a Capital One Venture Card.

☂️You'll likely face some cultural differences...

☀️But if you move here with an open mind, you'll be rewarded with a day-to-day likely unlike anything you've experienced before.

What to Expect When Moving to Istanbul

Istanbul offers a few very enticing benefits for an expat. Although the country is on the European continent, it is not part of the Schengen Area, a group of 27 European countries that share a coordinated visa policy. So you can stay in Europe without violating the Schengen Area rules. I'll dive more into visas farther below.

Due to the city's location between two continents, it can also be an excellent home base for visiting other countries. Istanbul International Airport is one of the most well-connected airports in the world, with plenty of flight options.

Istanbul can also be more affordable than other major European cities, though prices have increased in recent years.

Things to Do

Istanbul has no shortage of things to occupy your free time! When I first arrived in Istanbul, I took advantage of the beautiful landscape, walking alongside the Bosphorus, taking ferries to Princes' Islands and walking around the hilly neighborhoods on both the Asian and European sides.

While I love Taksim Square, I recommend exploring the surrounding areas. I've found some gems just wandering around and trying new neighborhoods. Don't miss the chance to savor authentic Turkish cuisine, from flavorful kebabs to sweet baklava, at one of the many restaurants or street vendors. Istanbul truly has something for everybody.

Visa & Residence Permit Requirements

Otağtepe Fatih Grove, a lush park in the Beykoz district of Istanbul! One of the greenest areas in the city

Depending on your nationality, a tourist visa allows you to stay for a maximum of 90 days in a 180-day period. Many nationalities qualify for an e-visa or a visa on arrival at one of the two major airports.

Citizens of certain countries, including the U.S., Canada, the UK, Australia and EU members, do not need a visa to stay up to 90 days. According to Turkey's official website, there are a few visa and residency permit options for expats interested in staying in Türkiye.

Before making a final decision, always ensure you know the latest information on visas and permits.

If you want to stay longer in Istanbul, you can apply for a residence permit. I’ve heard that the process can be lengthy and challenging, so you should start working on it ASAP. Residence permit requirements vary depending on the reason for your stay, and you may want to work with an attorney.

Türkiye doesn't yet have a digital nomad visa but maybe that'll change in the future.

Working in Istanbul

The job opportunities you'll find will depend on a few variables. English teachers and au pairs are popular jobs within the expat community and is also a common route to working in Türkiye.

If teaching English is the best way for you to move to Istanbul, know that most schools require a TEFL certificate to teach. You will need a valid work permit, which your employer should help you get.

It's important to note that foreigners can’t work in certain industries like healthcare, law, or security.

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Practical Tips for Foreigners Living in Istanbul

Beyoglu District from the water, photo courtesy of depositphotos.com

Cost of living in Istanbul: affordable options for expats

The cost of living in Istanbul is slightly higher than in Latin America or Southeast Asia. However, I still think it's affordable compared to my home country (the USA).

According to Expatisan, estimated monthly costs for a single person would be around 48,000 TRY (~ USD 1400). There are many ways to save money, like eating at local restaurants, shopping at supermarkets and cooking at home.

Renting an apartment in Istanbul: Avoid the city center to save on rent

The rental market in Istanbul has increased in recent years. Rents for a one-bedroom apartment in a popular area vary between 25,000 TRY - 40,000 TRY. If you're willing to live a bit further out, it's more affordable. You can use an online apartment search engine or work with a real estate agent (who work on commission).

You will need a residential permit to rent an apartment. Otherwise, you will have to sublease from someone else or look into short-term rental options, which was my route.

If you're interested in checking Istanbul out but aren't quite ready for the official move, save money on rent and stay for free as a housesitter. With Trusted Housesitters you can pet/house sit for residents, giving you the most affordable route to get to know the city before you make any big commitments.

Getting around Istanbul: using public transport and navigating the city

I've found Istanbul to be very walkable but it also has convenient public transport options, including buses, trams, and ferries. The ferry is an affordable way to access the Asian and European sides, and the city has expanded the metro in recent years (including a direct link to the Sabiha Gökçen International Airport).

To save money on transport, I use an Istanbul Kart, which you can load with credit and use to pay for public transportation.

Healthcare in Istanbul

It's important to consider health insurance when thinking about a move to Istanbul. If you have a valid visa or permit, you can use public options like the government SGK system but if not, I recommend you arrive with at least nomad insurance to cover emergencies.

Turkey has become something of a hotspot for medical tourism, with plenty of hospitals offering excellent medical care at varying price points.

Many hospitals are JCI-accredited and equipped with the latest technology. Internationally trained doctors and nurses cater to the needs of residents and visitors. The main hospitals for expats are:

  • Acibadem Hospital – Bakirkoy
  • Alman Hastanesi Hospital Siraselvilev Cad 119 Taksim
  • Acibadem Hospital – Kadikoy
  • American Hospital Istanbul Guzelbahce Sk. No. 20 Nisantasi

Pharmacies & emergency medical services

Pharmacies are affordable and easy to find, as indicated by a white square sign with the letter “E." Most pharmacists are open between 10:00 and 19:00, Monday through Saturday. There are also on-call pharmacies available in the evenings between 19:00 and 10:00. In case of a medical emergency, call 112.

Best Areas to Live in Istanbul

A neighborhood in Uskudar, photo courtesy of depositphotos.com

The city is divided into two halves: the European side and the Asian side. Within those two halves are 39 official districts, offering a wide choice of neighborhoods.

I settled on the Asian side and am very happy with the cost of living and easy access to the European side via the ferry. On the Asian side, some popular areas are:

  • Uskudar
  • Umraniye District
  • Kartal District
  • Kadikoy

Before signing a lease or deciding on which area to live sight unseen, I recommend you book at least a few nights at a hotel or vacation rental home in the area you're eyeing to get a feel for it and apartment hunt in person.

📍These are some great places to stay in the Asian side of Istanbul upon arrival:

  • Budget Stay: Elephant In The Room Hotel: Located in the heart of Kadikoy neighborhood, the rooms here are bright, clean, and spacious, ideal for a short stay.
  • Mid-Tier Stay: Mood in Flats: Also in Kadikoy, this two-bedroom apartment is best for families moving to Istanbul or travelers who desire a kitchen and living area.
  • Luxury Stay: The Pillo Loft: Located in Uskudar, you'll get great views and enough sleeping space for 6 adults. If it fits your budget, you'll be hard pressed to find a better temporary home base.

Is Istanbul Safe?

Istanbul is generally a safe city, with low crime rates compared to other major cities. However, it's still a big city so I would still keep my eye out and take precautions, as crime can happen anywhere, especially in the more tourist areas, where crowds are denser.

The key is to pay attention to your surroundings and follow some basic safety tips like you would in any major city.

Adapting to Turkish Culture as an American

The Blue Mosque at night, photo courtesy of depositphotos.com

I find Turkish culture to be fun and exciting. The country has a sizable population of millennials and Gen Z, so I always see people my age walking around. The people are also very family-oriented, which can make it challenging for a solo traveler to make friends.

There is also a sizable Islamic population, so it's common to hear the call to prayer in certain parts of the city. This doesn't mean you have to stop your day when you hear this but respect those that do. The easiest way to understand what you should do in a new situation is to watch what the general population is doing.

I also caution you to cover up when visiting certain cultural landmarks.

Learning to speak Turkish

One of my top tips? Try learning Turkish! Some Turkish people speak English, but only a few. I recommend learning some Turkish to get around and connect more deeply with the city and culture. I always have a translation app handy, but knowing a few basic words and phrases helps a lot. Speaking Turkish can also help you meet friends and find community.

Depending on your goals, I recommend these apps/platforms for language learning:

  • Drops: Use the free version of this app for 5-minutes of vocab lessons a day. This is good for improving vocab but little else.
  • Mondly: If you want to have a little bit more practice, this app is similar to Duolingo but has less silly prompts and more realistic phrases and sentences.
  • Babbel: Babbel is similar to Mondly but also teaches cultural tidbits during the language lesson.
  • iTalki: If you're more serious about learning to speak the language, this platform allows you to have 1:1 or group lessons with native teachers.

Is Living in Istanbul Right for You?

Istanbul is a great city if you want a vibrant mix of cultures and things to do and see at a slightly lower cost than Western Europe. The main pros are good location, rich cultural history, and safety. The cons are the cost of living (as it's gone up in recent years), the language barrier, and the sheer size of the city can make it a bit intimidating.

I've found Istanbul to be a great spot for expats. It has history, vibrant nightlife, and green spaces to hang out. The city mixes old and new with a diverse atmosphere.

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